Has this happened to you? You’re out running errands and make a quick stop at the store only to get out to a car that doesn’t start or you’re on the way out the door for work only to find the truck doesn’t start. It can happen to anyone at any time. Do you know what to do? Here are some tips to help you figure out what to do next.
Let’s start by determining what kind of no start you have, which helps narrow down what to do from there. Each situation requires a different approach. Knowing what is and isn’t working will provide some direction on what to do and at least help you gather some important information to communicate with your repair facility.
Engine cranks over but doesn’t start – Listen to the sound of the engine while you try to start it. Does it sound normal, or does it seem to spin faster than normal, or crank over unevenly? Does it pop, like it is trying to start? Are there any unusual dash lights on?
- Normal cranking sounds but no starts can be caused by the following:
- Loss of ignition spark. It could be from a failed component to the computer turning off the system for some reason. Like the wrong key.
- Loss of fuel supply or delivery. Like a failed fuel pump, or empty tank, or the computer turning off the fuel injectors because of a different issue, like a security system fault.
- Fast cranking no start can be due to the following:
- Engine timing issues like a broken timing belt or failed timing chain.
- Uneven cranking:
- Usually due to a loss of compression in one or more cylinders. This can be caused by a broken timing belt/chain or a mechanical failure like a broken valve spring or dropped valve seat.
- Popping when cranking, like the engine wants to start but doesn’t quite get there.
- Fuel delivery or supply issues like bad fuel, failing fuel pump, fuel injector problem, or empty gas tank.
- Timing related issues like a jumped timing belt/chain or confused computer.
- Unusual Dash lights:
- Look for flashing dash lights. Dash lights that turn on with the key for a little bit or stay on steady before the engine starts are normal. It’s the flashing lights that indicate a problem. Sometimes you will see a flashing red security light or flashing key symbol, indicating a problem with the key or vehicle security system. The security system can shut off fuel or ignition spark, preventing the engine from starting.
There is a loud “click” when trying to start, but nothing happens – Listen for the solid “click” sound when you turn the key to the start position. This problem can be caused by several different issues.
- A failed starter can cause the “click”.
- Dirty or corroded battery terminals or starter connections. Check the connections at the vehicle battery to see if they move or twist when you grab the cable or look for corrosion at the battery terminals. Clean with a mixture of baking soda and water. Make sure to rinse it well with water after cleaning.
- Low or failed vehicle battery. Turn on your vehicle’s headlights and see if they start bright and go very dim when trying to start the car, indicating a battery or charging problem.
- Mechanically “hydro-locked” locked engine due to water ingestion or an internal mechanical failure. Did you drive through deep water? Have the vehicle towed to your preferred shop for inspection.
There are multiple “clicks” when tying to start the vehicle – Similar to the single click problem but may click quickly several times when trying to start the vehicle. Possible causes are the following:
- Low or failed vehicle battery. Possible battery failure or low charge condition due to a charging system problem.
- Dirty or corroded battery or starter terminals. Check battery terminals to see if they are clean and tight on the battery.
- Possibly a failed starter.
Whirring sound when trying to start. – You can hear the starter spinning but the engine doesn’t crank over.
- Usually caused by a failed starter or worn flexplate/flywheel starter gear.
Engine cranks over very slowly and doesn’t start – Similar to the clicking scenario, a slow cranking engine indicates a low voltage power supply problem. This is especially a problem for diesels as they need the engine to crank smoothly and quickly to start properly. Look for the following as the sources for slow cranking engines.
- Low or failed vehicle battery.
- Dirty or corroded battery or starter terminals.
- Failing starter, drawing too much battery power.
- Wrong engine oil or oil level too high.
Nothing happens when you turn the key, no lights or sounds – This mainly indicates that there is a disruption in the battery power supply to the vehicle. Look for the following potential causes:
- Internally failed battery.
- Broken, loose, or disconnected battery cable connection.
- PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or ECM (Engine Control Module) failure.
Push button start vehicle and the dash displays “Key fob battery low” or “Replace key battery” – Vehicles using push button start require a paired key fob with the proper code to start. When the vehicle computer detects a programmed fob producing a weak radio signal, it will notify the driver that the key fob needs a battery replacement. Many times, that’s all that is needed to correct the condition. In rare instances, the key fob itself will need replacement and programming. One tip to try if the vehicle won’t start is to hold the key fob next to the starter button on the dash. Even if the key battery is dead, the vehicle will be able to pick up a faint signal and allow the vehicle to start and run.
Engine starts but runs bad or has no power – The list of components that could cause this condition is vast. Look for the following to help narrow down the list:
- Check Engine Light is ON. If it’s on, have it checked first by a professional.
- Fuel issue. Did you just fill up with gas? Could be a contamination issue or fuel supply issue. Have the vehicle checked.
- Ignition issue. Most of the time and ignition issue will trigger a Check Engine Light, but in some instances your engine will just run poorly.
Engine starts and runs normally but will not accelerate or rev up – Here is another situation that can be caused by a couple of different issues. This condition will likely cause a Check Engine Light in most cases but here are a few possible causes:
- Electronic throttle body problem. Drive by wire systems use an electric motor to move the throttle plate/valve as commanded by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The electronic throttle body has a dual output TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) to monitor the position of the throttle plate/valve. When it loses either of these input signals, it will go into a failsafe mode to prevent losing control of the vehicle. Causing the loss of throttle control and turning on one or more dash warning lights.
- Broken throttle cable. Older vehicle systems had a cable to connect the throttle body plate(s) to the gas pedal. If the cable breaks, you will lose throttle control.
It’s always inconvenient and frustrating when your vehicle doesn’t start when you need it to. Taking some time to narrow down the nature of the problem will assist the repair facility in zeroing in on the cause of the problem faster, which saves you money. The key is to stay calm, assess the situation, gather information, and make a plan to proceed. A quality repair facility, like Sanderson Auto Repair, can help you get your vehicle repaired and back on the road in a timely manner.